Finished Measurements
Width: 0.5 inches
Length: 1.5 inches
Materials:
Small amounts (a couple yards) of crochet thread or similar in colors of choice. This example used:
MC: Classic Elite Provence (100% Mercerized Egyptian Cotton) Color: #2627 French Red; split into 1 ply
CC: Crochet cotton size 10, Color: white
1 set of US size 0000/1.25mm needles (or similar)

Gauge
48 sts and 64 rows = 4" in double knit stockinette stitch

ABREVIATIONS
K - Knit stitch
P - Purl stitch
Sl - Slip stitch purlwise
Wyib - With yarn held in back of work
Wyif - With yarn held in front of work
Pwise - purlwise
St - Stitch
W&t - "Wrap and Turn" move yarn to opposite side of current position, slip stitch purlwise, move yarn back to other side, turn work and slip stitch purlwise.

NOTES ABOUT CASTING ON
For this small of a project, using your preferred method of casting on should be sufficient. This sample was worked using a special invisible cast on for double knit which I may create a tutorial for in the future as it is a bit tricky to puzzle out. Some other options would be the Magic cast-on then transferring the stitches onto one needle alternating every other stitch.

A second option is the Double knit long tail cast on, this cast on method alternates one cast on stitch in the usual long tail method (which makes a knit st) with one cast on stitch using the purl st version. It is not an invisible cast-on however.
To start, place slip knot on the needle. To make a purl cast on stitch, start by holding the yarn in the usual manner. Pick up the strand of yarn on the index finger farthest away from you by coming from behind it. Move the needle towards the strand on the far side of the thumb and go under it coming from behind to catch it on the needle.
Pull the needle back towards the index finger pulling the yarn through the loop around the index finger. Slip loop off index finger and tighten the stitch. One purl stitch is cast on. Alternate between casting on one knit stitch and one purl stitch.

DIRECTIONS
Cast on 12 stitches in CC (see Notes About Casting On).
Short-row Toe
*Sl1 wyib [k1, sl1 wyib] repeating between [ ] until there are 3 sts on left needle. Wrap and turn next stitch (w&t worked as follows: bring yarn to front, slip st purlwise, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back to left needle pwise, and turn work).
[Sl1 wyif, p1] repeating between [ ] until there are 4 sts on left needle. Wrap and turn next stitch (work by bringing yarn to back, sl st purlwise, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle pwise, and turn work).
Sl1 wyib [k1, sl1 wyib] until 1 st remains on left needle. W&t last stitch.
[Sl1 wyif, p1] until 2 sts remain on left needle. W&t second to last stitch.
Sl1 wyib [k1, sl1 wyib] across all sts, ending k1*.

Short row shaping is now complete for one side. Repeat instructions between ** to work the other side of the toe.
Foot
Switch to MC and work rows as follows:
Sl1 wyib [k1, sl1 wyib] end k1 for 10 rows (5 full rounds completed).
Short-row Heel
Short rows worked on only one side. Work short row section between ** from above toe section once.
Leg
Sl1 wyib [k1, sl1 wyib] end k1 for 12 rows (6 full rounds completed).
Switch to CC to work top ribbing as follows:
Sl1 wyib [p1, sl1 wyib, k1, sl1 wyib] end k1 for 6 rows (3 full rounds completed).

Binding off
We will now "open the tube" to bind off. Using a 2nd and 3rd needle held together in your right hand, slip the first stitch to the 2nd needle (the needle in front) and the next stitch to the 3rd needle (the needle in back) and so on until all stitches are now on two needles. Using a third needle, bind-off loosely in pattern the way you traditionally would for work on dpns and fasten off.

Finishing
Thread a cut piece of yarn through last stitch and tie ends in a knot to form hanging loop. Secure all yarn ends inside with a knot and trim. Turn sock right side out and hang it with pride!

by Jennifer Tallapaneni

Materials:
MC- Crust colored worsted yarn, 1 skein (Example in Red Heart Super Saver 100% acrylic - Color: Linen)
CC- Red worsted yarn, 1 skein (Example Lion brand Wool-ease 80% acrylic 20% wool- Color: 102 Ranch Red)
1 set of size 6 needles
Tapestry needle
Stuffing (optional)

STITCH PATTERNS

bbl inc [bobble increase] k1 (do not drop stitch from left needle), yo, k1, yo, k1 all into same stitch (there will be 5 loops on the needle within the one stitch). Turn p5 back across the 5 created stitches, turn and k5
bbl dec [bobble decrease] slip 2 stitches knitwise, k3tog, pass 2 slipped stitches over knit stitch. Poke bobble forward with finger and make sure to pull the next stitch tight
K1f&b [bar increase] Knit a stitch, leaving stitch on left needle; knit into the back loop of this stitch


DIRECTIONS
Cherry Filling:
NOTE: Cherry filling is in Reverse Stockinette Stitch. CO 11 stitches LOSELY in CC (multiples of 3 + 2 extra, example done in 3 sets. If you choose, you can do just 2 sets for a non-deep dish pie. Simply cast on 8 stitches).
Purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Start pattern below.
Row 1 (RS): Purl.
Row 2: K1, *k2, bbl inc; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Rowd 3, 5, 7: Purl.
Row 4: K1, *k2, bbl dec; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 6: K1, *bbl inc, k2; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Row 8: K1, *bbl dec, k2; repeat from * to last st, K1.
Repeat row 1- 8 five times (or enough times to fit around crust slice). BO all sts.
For Crust:
CO 30 stitches in MC (worked in multiples of 6, example done in 5).
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: *K4, k2tog* repeat until end.
Row 3: *P2tog, p3* repeat until end.
Row 4: *K2, k2tog* repeat until end.
Row 5: Purl
Row 6: Purl
Starting with a knit row continue in St. st. for 16 rows (or width of finished cherry filling) ending in WS row.
Purl 3 rows.
For the wedge shape, continue in St st. decreasing 1 stitch on each side, 1 stitch in from the end for EOR (Every Other Row) twice then every 4th row as follows:
[K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
Purl all stitches
K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
*Purl all stitches
Knit all stitches
Purl all stitches
K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1*]

Repeating between * * until 3 stitches remain.

K3tog and fasten off.
Pick up 15 stitches along purl ridge where crust edge meets the back. Knit 1 row. Work same as bottom wedge repeating between [ ].
Extra cherry goodness:
This part is optional but helps to create a more realistic full filling. Make several extra bobbles (cherries).
Bobble:
CO 1 in CC.
Row 1: [K1f&b] 3 times – 6 sts.
Row 2 & 4: Purl
Row 3: Knit
Row 5: Ssk, k1, k2tog – 3 sts.
Row 6: P3tog- 1 st. Fasten off
Knot CO and BO tails tog and tuck 1 into cherry with Reverse Stockinette Stitch facing. Use other tail to attach to Cherry Filling in random places.
Finishing:
With purl side of the cherry filling facing, weave in all ends. If using acrylic, check yarn label if light ironing is permissible. Use steam and light iron setting to block. If using wool, block in the traditional method. Suggest sewing 1 side of filling together and stuffing with plastic bag remnants to block.
Using MC, sew the top and bottom of the cherry filling lengthwise around pie wedge.
Stuff with filler before seaming up last side. Do not overstuff. Enjoy!

Materials:
8 ply acrylic yarn in gold — 100m
8 ply acrylic yarn in off-white/cream — 100m
1 set 4mm DPNs (or the size needed to suit your yarn)
1 40cm 4mm circular needle (or the size needed to suit your yarn)
1 4mm crochet hook
Stitch marker
Plastic tapestry canvas — 1 sheet
Yarn needle
Polyfill
Gauge:
Approximately 22st to 10cm in St st
Pattern notes:
This pattern is based on the Kitty Pi bed by Wendy Johnson* and the Boobie Scarf by Jillian Moreno**. I came up with the idea as a birthday gift — the party was a surprise pie fight!
Skills used:
Knitting in the round on double pointed needles.
Increasing and decreasing (Inc = knit into front and back of stitch).
Short row shaping.
Meringue guidelines:
ALL MERINGUES [Small (Medium, Large)]:
Row 1: Work 5 (7, 17) sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 2: Work 1 (3, 3) st, wrap next st, turn.
Row 3: Work 2 (4, 4) sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 4: Work 3 (5, 5) sts, wrap next st, turn.
SMALL AND MEDIUM MERINGUE ONLY:
Rows 5-8: Repeat Row 4.
Row 9: Work 2 (4) sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 10: Work 1 (3) st, wrap next st, turn.
Row 11: Work to end of row.
LARGE MERINGUE ONLY:
Rows 5-6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: Work 6 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 8: Work 7 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Rows 9-12: Repeat row 8.
Row 13 : Work 6 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 14 : Work 5 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Rows 15 and 16: Repeat Row 14.
Row 17 : Work 4 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 18 : Work 3 sts, wrap next st, turn.
Row 19 : Work to end of row.
Note: These are only guidelines for the meringues — for some variety you can knit random rows of garter stitch, extra short-row bumps (like the "nipple" in the original Boobie Scarf pattern), work different numbers of stitches, etc. for added texture and shape.
Directions:

Pie crust:
CO 9sts in gold yarn and divide evenly between 3 DPNs
K 1 round
Next round — Inc each st (18 sts)
K 3 rounds
Next round — Inc each st (36 sts)
K 6 rounds
Next round — Inc each st (72 sts)
K 12 rounds
Next round — Inc each st, knitting onto your circular needle (PM at start of round) (144 sts)
K 3 rounds
Next round — K10, K2tog to end of round (12 decreases)
K 6 rounds
Next round — K9, K2tog to end of round (12 decreases), slip next st pw, bring yarn to front of needles, turn work, and sl stich pw back to original needle
Next round — (working on ws — beg of ruffled pie edge) Inc each st
K 2 rounds
Next round — Inc1, Inc1, K1 to end of round
BO
Weave in ends.
Measure your hand width against the bottom of your pie crust. Mark widths for the top and bottom of your hand with safety pins. Crochet chains to the crust between the pins and secure.
Trace a circle onto your plastic tapestry canvas and cut out (mine was approx. 17cm diameter — you should have a few centimetres of overhang to make up the pie sides). Stretch crust over plastic. Thread a crochet end through your yarn needle, and sew through the tapestry canvas for extra strength. Using duplicate stitch, sew through the plastic and the pie crust in several directions so that it lies flat.
Meringue top:
CO 9 sts in cream yarn and divide evenly between 3 DPNs
K 1 round
Next round — Inc each st (18 sts)
Begin meringues in the next round — start with the small and medium meringues, spacing them as you see fit)
K 3 rounds
Next round — Inc each st (36 sts)
You can begin adding the large meringues randomly from this round onwards.
K 6 rounds
Next round — Inc each st (72 sts)
K 12 rounds
Stop adding meringues from this point.
Next round — Inc each st, knitting onto you circular needle (PM at start of round) (144 sts)
K 3 rounds
BO
Pin bound off edge to the pie crust on the line where the ruffle begins. Thread yarn needle with gold yarn, and sew each bound off stitch on the meringue to the pie crust. Leave a 5cm hole. Weave in ends to the underside of the ruffle. Fill pie with stuffing, sew up the remaining hole and weave in final ends. Sneak up on someone and squash the pie in their face. Laugh out loud.

Yarn: You will need about 100 yards of a cotton yarn.
Needle: Size 6 dpns (set of 5)
I used size 6 dpns (5 short needles) on Tahki Cotton classic. I suspect a thinner-than-worsted weight yarn, such as Simply Soft, would work for a less expensive project.

Bottom of Pouch
Start with 6 stitches on 2 dpns, 3 on each needle. Join, and increase in each stitch however you want (I did it k1 in front and back) for five rounds, inserting more needles as you go.
(6x2)=12 x2=24 x2= 48 x2=96 x2=192 stitches in five rounds
Work seed-stitch (k1p1) all around once
Insert stitch marker or piece of waste yarn.
Knit 2, k2tog around twice.
K1 k2tog round once
K1 p1 round once
*I think I did the bottom a little different on the first one(picture), but the second one (this pattern) turned out looking pretty close.*

Body of Pouch
*Make the pouch longer or shorter by changing the number of rounds in the purple lines*
Knit round 4 times, (you'll see stockinette on one side - that is the outside of the pouch)
Knit 2 purl 1 round 3 times (this will make a spiralling purl-stitch pattern) Either continue this for 3 more rounds or reverse the stitch pattern 3 rounds to make "arrows" out of the pattern. I can't tell how I did this - mostly by watching where the purl stitches were ending up.
Knit round 4 times (more stockinette)

Top of Pouch, EYELET
K1 k2tog k1 yarn over repeat to end. This makes the eyelet for the i-cord.
Knit round twice (to stabilize the eyelet layer)
Increase in every stitch for one round (to make the top ruffle, and make binding off more elastic)

Finishing
Bind off in k1 p1 rib for all but the last three stitches. Make the last three stitches an i-cord long enough to loop up and around your wrist, and back down to the pouch. Graft or sew these last three stitches to the base of the i-cord.
Weave in ends and tails. If you expect to hold jewelry or small items in the pouch, close up the hole in the bottom. If not, leave it there - I think the pattern looks pretty.
Make enough i-cord to go all around the circumference of the pouch (plus four inches) while it is at rest (not drawn up). Thread it through starting with the center at the wrist-loop join. Tie knots at the end of each half of the i-cord so they don't slip through the eyelet.

Cast on 6 sts and knit one row as for I-cord.
Divide sts equally among 3 dpns. Place stitch marker and begin to knit in the round.

Rounds 1 & 2: *k1, p1; repeat from *
Round 3: k all sts
Rounds 4 & 5: *k1, p1; repeat from *
Round 6: kfb into first and last stitch on each dpn, k all other stitches (you're increasing by 6 sts each time you knit this round)

Repeat rounds 1-6 six times (42 sts)

Round 7: p all sts
Round 8: bind off knitwise

Turn the cone inside out. Keep the little nubbin at the bottom tucked on the inside to help stabilize the point of the cone. Weave in ends and set the cone aside while you work on the scoop.

Cast on 6 sts and knit one row as for I-cord.
Divide sts equally among 3 dpns. Place stitch marker and begin to knit in the round.

Round 1: kfb all sts (12 sts)
Round 2: k all sts
Round 3: *k1, kfb; repeat from * (18 sts)
Round 4: k all sts
Round 5: *k2, kfb; repeat from * (24 sts)
Round 6: k all sts
Round 7: p all sts

Rounds 8 & 9: *k1, p1; repeat from *
Round 10: k all sts

Repeat rounds 8-10 five times. Turn the cone inside out and proceed to round 11.

Round 11: *k3, kfb; repeat from * (30 sts)
Round 12: *k4, kfb; repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 13: *k5, kfb; repeat from * (42 sts)
Rounds 14 - 19: k all sts
Round 20: p all sts
Round 21: bind off knitwise

Sew shut the little hole that probably formed when you turned the cone inside out. Weave in ends and set the cone aside while you work on the scoop.

Cast on 80 sts, leaving a 30-inch long tail. Divide sts among 3 dpns (if you prefer, you can use a 16-inch circ for the first several rows). Place stitch marker and begin to knit in the round.

Round 1: p all sts
Rounds 2 - 5: *k1, kfb, ssk, k1, k2tog, kfb; repeat from *
Round 6: p2tog all sts (40 sts)
Round 7: k all sts
Round 8: *k4, kfb; repeat from * (48 sts)
Rounds 9 & 10: k all sts
Round 11: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * (40 sts)
Round 12 - 14: k all sts
Round 15: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 16: k all sts
Round 17: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * (30 sts)
Round 18: k all sts
Round 19: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * (24 sts)
Round 20: k all sts
Round 21: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * (18 sts)
Round 22: k all sts
Round 23: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * (12 sts)
Round 24: k all sts
Round 25: k2tog all sts (6 sts)

Cut yarn, thread needle with yarn tail, pull through remaining stitches, knot discreetly and pull tail through to wrong side. Weave in the cast on tail towards Rounds 6/7 (this is the scoop opening). If you would like to embellish with sprinkles or nuts, now is the time to sew them on.

Cast on 40 sts leaving a 30-inch long tail. Divide sts among 3 dpns, place stitch marker and begin to knit in the round.

Round 1: k all sts
Round 2: *k1, kfb; repeat from * (60 sts)
Rounds 3 - 7: k all sts
Round 8: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * (40 sts)
Round 9 - 12: k all sts
Round 13: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 14: k all sts
Round 15: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * (30 sts)
Round 16: k all sts
Round 17: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * (24 sts)
Round 18: k all sts
Round 19: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * (18 sts)
Round 20: k all sts
Round 21: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * (12 sts)
Round 22: k all sts
Round 23: k2tog all sts (6 sts)

Cut yarn, thread needle with yarn tail, pull through remaining stitches, knot discreetly and pull tail through to wrong side. If you would like to embellish with sprinkles or nuts, now is the time to sew them on.

Cast on 40 sts leaving a 30-inch long tail. Divide sts among 3 dpns, place stitch marker and begin to knit in the round.

Rounds 1 - 10: k all sts
Round 11: k2tog all sts (20 sts)
Rounds 12 - 21: k all sts
Round 22: k2tog all sts (10 sts)
Rounds 23 - 29: k all sts
Round 30: k2tog all sts (5 sts)

Transfer sts to a single dpn

Rounds 31 - 33: I-cord
Round 34: Still working as an I-cord k2tog, k2tog, k1 (3 sts)
Rounds 35 - 37: I-cord

Cut yarn, thread needle with yarn tail, pull through remaining stitches, knot discreetly and pull tail through to wrong side. If you would like to embellish with sprinkles or nuts, now is the time to sew them on.

Materials:
Yarn: Worsted or medium weight (you’ll need two different colors)
Needles: two double-pointed #5

Pattern:
Follow the chart below, starting at the bottom with row 1.

• Cast on 10 sts
  
• Work as stockinette stitch, picking up the contrasting color as the chart indicates (I just carried this yarn loosely behind the work so as to avoid weaving in a lot of ends)
  
• After row 30, cast on 10 new sts, work the existing 10 sts, then cast on 10 more
  
• After row 40, bind off 30 sts
  
• I made little wooden cubes about 3/4″ in size (adjust to fit your finished work), folded my knitting around it, and then sewed up the edges
  

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 15” long x 20” wide (after felting)
MATERIALS
4 Balls BERROCO ULTRA ALPACA (100 grs), #6238 Medium Orchid (MC) and 1 ball #6286 Verdigris Mix (CC)
Straight knitting needles, sizes 7 and 11 OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
Crochet hook, size 4.50 mm (G)
Cable needle (cn)
Tapestry needle
Two 1 1/4” buttons
Matching sewing thread and sewing needle
GAUGE

12 sts = 4” with 2 strands of yarn held tog on size 11 needles
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
BODY

With larger needles, using 2 strands of MC held tog, cast on 60 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 30” from beg, end on WS. Bind off.
Note: A large flat piece like this tends to get a lettucey ruffled edge when felted. To keep side edges pulled in, thread a strand of yarn into tapestry needle and weave in and out along both side edges of body. Pull strands gathering side edges in to ½ of their original length, anchoring strands every 5”.
Felt body in washing machine, using hot water, until it measures 15” wide x 20” long. It may be necessary to put it through the cycle more than once. Remove from washer and tug on sides until flat. This will break the gathering strands, but that’s ok. It’s not going anywhere.

CABLED BANDS (Make 2)

With smaller needles, using one strand of CC, cast on 16 sts.
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 and all WS rows: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 7: k2, sl 6 sts to cn and hold in FRONT, k6, k6 from cn, k2.
Rows 9 and 11: Knit.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Rep these 12 rows until piece measures 20” (or length of felted body), end on WS. Bind off.

FINISHING
Pin cabled bands to felted body 3” apart with the outer edge of each band 3 1/2” in from edge of body. Sew in place with sewing needle and thread.
Buttonloops (Make 2): With crochet hook, join one strand of CC in one end of cabled band. Chain for 3” (or long enough to fit around button), join to cabled band with a sl st. Turn. Work 25 sc’s into loop, join with a sl st in cabled band. Fasten off. Roll body loosely with cabled bands on inside (these will hold the needles). Mark placement of buttons on outside of body opposite buttonloops. Unroll and sew on buttons

Nguồn: http://www.berroco.com/exclusives/kable/kable.html